Dawn: how many worthwhile accomplishments have you achieved at any other time of day?
The sunrise revealed my first glimpse of Mt. Kenya, Africa's second tallest peak. Alpine moorlands form a wreath around its neck - wherein dwells the legendary Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird. There are buttloads of sunbird species in Africa, so what makes this one so special? Well firstly, it looks friggin awesome. Secondly, it dwells only high elevation moorlands from 3000 to 4500 ft., in only 3 mountain areas: Kilamanjaro, Elgon, and Mt. Kenya. It is the king of the mountain.
But our fellowship was divided. Wilson and I started up the narrow road toward Camp Moses; the others would catch up. During my time in Kenya, I've been baptized with several nicknames now. Everywhere I go, people want to meet me, offer me things, greeting me emphatically, whilst practically ignoring my two black friends. To make fun of me they started calling me Mfalme(1) which means "King." But this royal stature was rarely a help more than a hinderance, for Jackson and Samuel were waylaid at the gate by the gate guard who was determined to make me pay full price. Jack had used his guiding credentials and charm to negotiate a deal with the lady guard from the day before, to shave off some of the rate for a foreigner (mfalme or no). But her shift for the week was over. Now this new lady was giving him a hard time. This gave us some time to do some forest birding, and these were some of the characters:
Cape Robin-Chat
Hartlaub's Turaco, very difficult to photograph!
Beautiful Sunbird
We were forbidden from entering this tantilizing forest, which was a shame, because somewhere within it dwells the rare African Green Ibis, the most awesome and mysterious mountain bird in Kenya. However, the abundance of buffalo paddies reminded us of impending death if we were to enter. We kept our distance.
Mentally unstable buffalo prevented us from penetrating the forest
An strangely white Tree Hyrax peeps from his lair
African Crowned Eagles
 |
| Mountain Buzzard |
Two badass mountain guides
Samuel was a local guide we had picked up in the streets of Nanyuki. Though Jack had his certification, he was still quite new at it. Samuel was able to procure us some much needed missing equipment for a fee, along with his 25 years of mountain experience which came in handy.
The highland forest soon gave way to subalpine shrubland, where some flamboyant residents made no effort to hide.
Golden-winged Sunbird
Malachite Sunbird
To see the king, we would have to do a full day's hike further up, during which we were constantly accompanied by his court minstrels. From the forest to as high as there is vegetation, you will find pairs of Hunter's Cisticolas performing their vocal duet.
Hunter's Cisticola
Walk down the streets of any medieval town, and you will be followed by peasant beggars. These are the Alpine Chats, eager for a carelessly dropped peanut.
Alpine Chat
Jackson's Francolin
It rained all night, and by morning, the land was blessed with a heavenly rainbow, a positive omen for our quest.
Simply magical
The peak, which seemed so distant, loomed nearer
Waves of fog continually came and went over the alpine moorlands, so that you could be walking for hours, and when it disappeared, you would find yourself in a completely different landscape. We had reached the Giant Lobelias, domain of the Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird.
The habitat of the Scarlet-tufted
But we were perplexed, for none of these plants was in flower, so how could a flower-dependent species survive here? They are non-migratory, so they must be around the mountain. We marched on through their habitat, without a sign.
Suddenly, out of the mist, a streamer tailed silhouette. This was him!
Further up the mountain, we were in Malachite central. Here are three males in the midst of combat.
The source of their quarrel? A female of course.
This immature will have to be patient if he wants to get some
Finally, a male reveals his scarlet tufts, which usually remain hidden. He took a break from showing off to feed. Mystery revealed. Beneath the leaf-like structures of the Lobelia were tiny, hidden flowers, the source of his fuel, and he the source of ours. Onward!
I was getting a hard time from the guides for not having shoes on, one later blaming altitude sickness on shoelessness. I was half expecting him to tell me I'd been cursed by a witch because I heard an owl scream!
Shifton Camp
We started the grueling 4 km scramble at 3:00 am and reached the top by sunrise. The route was fraught with peril. "Easy!" I said. "Actually, that was the hardest climb I've done."
The true summit in view
Point Lenana, 4,985 ft.
The route was dodgy - every step could mean serious injury or worse...and the altitude was starting to make us feel funny.
Taking a tip from Dom and my trip to the Tetons, we conserved energy by butt-sliding down the mountain. Everything was fine until I had to sit down just short of the base camp. I practically fell asleep. I dragged myself the next km to the camp and by then it was an epic struggle just to go the the bathroom and collect some water. I went to sleep in the hut thinking I would wake up and feel better. Turned out I felt just as shitty when I did.
I had always thought altitude sickness was for pansies, but I had to accept that I had it. The others were urging us to leave immediately and head back to Moses Camp, 14 km further down. That would mean 22 km in one day. But they had a point, if you're sick, the best thing to do is get rid of what is making you sick. So off we went, the boys carrying most of my stuff. Turns out I did have 14 more k in me!
We made it!
1. Earlier on the night bus leg, there were only 2 "economy" tickets left, so we had to get one "business" or something like that. Jack and Wilson these guys were like "here you go mfalme."
The epicness of your adventures never ceases :)
ReplyDelete