Uganda pt. 6: Bokora Wildlife Reserve

Star-gazing is a fun pursuit for amateur astronomers, and there are few better places for it than the vast and remote Bokora Wildlife Reserve. Similar to Pian Upe, this reserve is to the north and I would say more wild and remote. Little did we know that we would bump into a Star-spotted Nightjar, the best bird of the trip! 

Bokora faces the similar problems to the other northern reserves: rogue cattle herding and indiscriminate bush fires. Until as recently as 2018, this whole region was the land of cattle rustlers. These guys would run around with AK-47's and steal other peoples' cattle, then herd them extremely long distances back to their home areas. Finally the national army came in and put a stop to it by confiscating's everybody's guns. So you could say that the area was not safe for birding until 2018! 

This was good news for us as we had some relatively fresh territory to explore for interesting records. I'm a pretty terrible ebirder but this time, I would have no excuse not to upload our lists! 

Emmy is far outmatched in terms of weapons...

We did our part in disarming the region, by buying this condom catapult from some kids

Our campsite was nothing but a bare patch of dirt next to the ranger station, but it was rich with birds. We could hear Three-banded Coursers and a Pearl-spotted Owlet by night, and by day we were visited by White-crested Helmetshrikes and a friendly Rufous-crowned Roller.We also found Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit. 

White-crested Helmetshrikes

Rufous-crowned Roller

On our first morning, the rangers took us to a huge lookout post used for detecting poachers. It was a truly massive rock that we climbed up for an amazing view. We searched some small crevasses for Puff Adders, but they were not home. We did find a Northern Striped Sand Snake! Walking around the base of the rock, there were birds here and there like Go-away-birds and Brown Parrots. 

View from the lookout rock

View of the savannah from up on the rocks. We originally flushed the nightjar from there

Wilson and I split up for a bit, and he called me over because he had flushed a nightjar. We combed the area trying to relocate the bird. Wilson flushed it again and we were able to see it land on the base of the huge rock hill. We got Emmy and carefully stalked it until we had satisfying photos. But which species was this? Definitely a lifer for sure, but we were debating between Plain, Freckled, and dare I say, Star-spotted? Ultimately its field marks led us to the conclusion that this was a Star-spotted Nightjar. I could not find any information on the internet about this species ever being recorded in Uganda, except it is listed on the Avibase checklist of birds of Uganda. Is it a new species for Uganda? 

The Star-spotted Nighjar was more than enough validation for visiting Bokora, but our  birding rampage was not over yet. We later found Desert Cisticola. The next morning, right beside the road, we found a perched Long-legged Buzzard. This is a scarce northern specialty and the only sighting of the entire trip! Other interesting sightlings in Bokora were 5 species of bustard (Buff-crested, black-bellied, white-bellied, Hartlaub's and Denham's) and some Lappet-faced Vultures. 

Emmy looked under an empty water tank and found this Striped Sand Snake

Long-legged Buzzard

Lappet-faced Vulture

Next, we were off to Kidepo Valley National Park, a place I've dreamt of visiting for many years. 

Uganda pt. 5: Mt. Moroto: Quest for the Condom Launcher

After Pian Upe and just before Bokora Wildlife Reserve, we squeezed in a trip to Mt. Moroto courtesy of Emmy's epic birding vision. It was an interesting place where we did not get exactly what we expected, but saw tons of cool birds we didn't! 

The first cool bird was at the UWS guest house in town, at about 4 in the morning. I woke up to the sound of Barn Owls screeching outside my room. I walked outside and stood in a little field with my headlamp, eventually catching a view of one flying by. A lifer owl for East Africa! 

In the morning, we proceeded to Kara-Tunga Tours guesthouse to secure a guide for a hike up Mt. Moroto. It took us a while to get going, partly because of the friendly conversation with the nice folks at Kara-Tunga Tours. It was by far the best coffee I've had in Uganda and I intended to savour it. We learned about how this region was inhospitable to visitors until 2018. Karamajong tribesmen used to run around rustling cattle with AK-47s, until the national army came in and confiscated everybody's guns. We heard a shocking story of a prison break that had occurred in 2020. The prisoners broke into the armory and stole 14 guns. 217 prisoners escaped, 3 shot dead, and only 7 were captured. The rugged Mt. Moroto provided an ideal terrain for them to escape the manhunt and never be heard from again. 

Once we finally got going, we had quite a distance through the town before getting to the forest and it was getting quite hot. Once in the habitat, we started getting birds. The first lifer was a pair of unexpected Boran Cisticolas with a distinctive song. Further up the mountain, there was some riparian habitat with huge fig trees, which had White-crested Turacos running through their canopy. We took some time to explore an isolated rocky outcrop, drawn in by the song of a Little Rock Thrush, another lifer! Wilson and Emmy very briefly glimpsed a West African Seedeater but I completely missed it. While looking, I found several condom wrappers discarded around a campfire. "Somebody got lucky here" I said. Wrong. The guide told me that the contraceptives had been used to fashion a slingshot for hunting birds. The government was trying to support family planning, but the locals seemed more interested in having children and letting them fill their bellies with wild birds, caught with the condom-launcher. We were very keen to see one of these weapons in action, and to take it off someone's hands as a souvenir. 

White-crested Turaco

As we walked further and further up the mountain via this valley, we crossed paths with an intermittent stream of locals brining burlap sacks of charcoal the opposite direction. Machete work could be heard picking the forest away bit by bit all throughout the valley, though it wasn't blatantly obvious. Alot of the kids we met didn't speak English or Kiswahili and apparently don't go to school. If these people keep sticking to the ways of the past but continue having more and more children, I fear Mt. Moroto Forest Reserve will become just Mt. Moroto. 

A steady stream of illegal charcoal extraction goes unhindered by any rule of law to speak of

As it warmed up, a new bird appeared along the ridge: a stunning White-headed Vulture. It was really cool and unexpected to see this critically endangered vulture in wooded canyon! 

White-headed Vulture cruises by the cliff

By now it was getting unbearably hot and sweaty and we focused our search on the seedeaters, which apparently are extremely shy. Singing atop a tree, an indigobird caught our attention. We took many pictures and sound recordings. In the same tree, we observed a female as well as a pair of African Firefinches. After considerable discussion, we concluded that these were Variable Indigobirds. The range map doesn't show them as being found in Uganda, so this must be a very good record! 

Variable Indigobird

We spotted a female West African Seedeater with 2 fledglings on the edge of a cultivation and I managed to snap some terrible quality pictures. There are no streaky seedeaters in this region, which is interesting. It was so hot that Emmy and Wilson wanted to go back down, so I contended myself with the views and we started walking down. 

West African Seedeater adult (above) and juvenile (below)

The habitat near where we heard the Orange River Francolins

Just before we got to the bottom, Emmy took us into a dry riverbed where we tried calling for Orange River Francolin. We did get a response. We got into position, lying flat behind a rock and hearing them coming closer. It sounded to be two or three of the bastards. Then suddenly, they went silent and that was that. Emmy said they had become extra-shy due to all the condom-launchers in the area. Too bad! At least we got a Gambaga Flycatcher in that river bed. It was a swelteringly hot and sweaty ordeal and we were also hungry. We retreated to the Kara-Tunga guest house for some pizza and cold sodas and stuffed our faces. 

That was to be our only day at Mt. Moroto, because we had time to spend in our next spot, Bokora Wildlife Reserve. I strongly feel that a more lengthy foray into the mountain, perhaps  with camping, would reveal even more scintillating bird records. We did some food shopping for vegetables and other cooking wares on our way out, and at the produce market, spotted three boys carrying the mysterious weapon that made our birding so difficult: the condom-launcher a.k.a. condom cattapult! The least I could do was pay them 1000 Ugandan shillings to take it off their hands. One more step toward total disarmament of the region...just doing our part. 

Uganda pt. 4: Pian Upe Game Reserve - a new Standard of camping

We left Mabira Forest feeling depressed to have borne witness to Ugandan corruption and exploitation at its ugliest. Emmy had given me fair warning that would rather have avoided that site, but I just had to see it for myself. 

Now we could focus on the true purpose of this trip: to explore northeastern Uganda. This was a unique trip comprised of three friends. Emmy was the driver, cultural and natural history guide, master fire-cooker, mechanic and accountant. Wilson was the official trip leopard spotter and general bird listener. I was basically the trip financier, and the one who came up with the crazy idea. We each had our own goals in mind for this trip and places we looked forward to. For Emmy, the place he wouldn't stop talking about was Pian Upe Game Reserve. 

We met up with local ranger/guide Faustine and got ourselves set up at the 'public campsite', set atop an isolated rocky hill surrounded by vast arid plains. This was a game reserve which allows hunting, so the game is scarce and quick to flee upon the sight of a vehicle. Over the next couple of days, between his many business phone calls, Faustine was able to give us some interesting info about this amazing region. 

These Elands really kept their distance, due to hunting activities in the area

The first thing about Pian Upe is that it is massive. At about 2314 km^2, its even bigger than the Masai Mara (1510km^2). But its huge size makes it difficult to protect. The dream of conservationists like Faustine and Emmy is that some day it will be turned into a National Park. Its major weakness is that most of its great game has been wiped out by poaching. Back in the day, animals like black rhinos, elephants, lions and giraffes roamed around its vast plains. It is difficult to draw in tourists without those charismatic fauna. Emmy thinks that if they could restore the park to its former glory, it would rival the Serengeti as a safari destination. 

During our visit, the most impactful aspect of the landscape was the incessant wildfires, caused by rogue cattle herders trying to create fresh grass conditions but going about this with reckless abandon. I would say easily half the park had been recently burned. For the most part, the existing trees' fire-resistant bark had kept them alive, but in some instances where the fire had been fierce, they had become charred skeletons, giving the landscape an eerie post-apocalyptic look. 

Our challenge was to find the northern species that inhabit this region. Some, like the Stone Partridge and Karamoja Apalis, were residents of this arid region. Most targets, like the Swallow-tailed Kite and Heuglin's Wheatear, were wanderers over the vast northern regions of Abyssinia and North Africa which I don't know too much about. The mystery makes them that much more appealing to seek out! Desert Date, Red-bark Acacia, and Whistling Thorn Acacia decorated the horizon. 

Vervet Monkey in the campsite

On our first evening at camp, we took a walk in the pains and found a Spotted Eagle-Owl hunting from a tree. It later flew and perched on the ground. Interesting! A Gennet also made an appearance. The staff at the bar prepared us a very nice chicken stew with ugali and rice - it was epic. 

Morning birding began right in our hilltop camp, we were visited by a group of raucous Stone Partriges. This is a very difficult bird in most parts, but they had become semi-tame, although almost impossible to get a picture of due to being constantly on the move. While following the partridges, we inadvertently flushed a pair of male Standard-winged Nightjars, but were unable to re-locate them. The male standard-wing is a shocking sight if you've never seen one before. It looks like a nightjar being chased by two bats! 

Accompanied by Faustine, we set out on the main road toward a track that would lead us to some hopefully in-tact habitat for the Karamoja Apalis. Before we even left the main road, I spotted a Cheetah walking through the grass! It disappeared into some dense bushes and, without even appearing to have sprinted, emerged with a Bush Duiker in its jowels! It must have been caught sleeping? 

Just minutes later, we spotted a group of 4 other Cheetahs walking at some distance from the road. In these game reserves (where hunting is permitted), driving off-track poses no issue. We put the Land cruiser's capabilities to good use in following this group while maintaining a distance so as to not scare them off. While watching the cheetahs, we were tempted by distraction as three targets popped from the wilderness onto our list: Fox Kestrel, Abyssinian Roller and Heuglin's Wheatear. I did not know where to aim the bazooka. 

You can tell this one is the mum, it lacks a mane

Fox Kestrel

Heuglin's Wheatear

After the cheetah excitement, we drove to some sites along the road where Fox's Weavers have nested in the past. This was the dry season, and they nest in the wet season, so the birds were widely dispersed. Finding one was far from guaranteed. On this day, we did not. Another target that required lots of driving to different sites was the Karamoja Apalis, fond of Whistling Acacias like the ones in the picture bellow. 

Faustine nagivated us along the labyrinthine tracks that wove through the park, in between phone calls. He was organizing a meeting for some very big VIP's, and briefing his subordinates on the proper etiquettes an protocols, including how to open the car door for them, how to seat them, talk to them and so on. Without any kind of map, he used mysterious landmarks to guide us to the Karamoja Apalis habitat, sometimes mid-phone call. His characteristic telephone greeting: "Hello, how are you, where are you, when are you coming?" gave us a chuckle. 

Mt. Kadam, a dramatic feature among the otherwise flat plains

One of the many bush fires set by illegal pastoralists

To access the best area for the Karamoja Apalis, we had to skirt around a grass fire. Emmy was very cautious about avoiding the heat under the cruiser. Usually the dirt track was enough to stop the grass fire. One particular area was a flurry of activity. Abyssinian Rollers and Fox Kestrels vied for locusts scared up by the fire, while Abdim's Storks stalked the burnt patches like grim reapers, disregarding the smoldering hot ground. 

Faustine got us to the habitat, but the little buggers proved difficult to photograph has the jumped around in the tops of the acacias. 

Karamoja Apalis

Later on, we came upon an absolutely massive herd of cattle led by a young boy, who ran away when he saw us. I expected to see a few cattle here and there in the reserve, but the brazenness of bringing such large herds through the park was kind of shocking to me. Apparently they sometimes send out rangers to make arrests, but it seems to me like they don't have much control over the problem. 

After alot of driving around, we did see some interesting game here and there, though the animals were few and very skittish. Oribi were the most common, followed by Topi. There were a few Eland, Zebra, Jackson's Hartbeest and Roan Antelope. Those last two are special for this region. 

Close-up of the Whistling-thorn Acacia

Whistling Acacias with Mt. Kadam in the distance. 

African Quailfinch

On our way back from the Karamoja Apalis, we found a flock of skittish African Quailfinches, a pair of Clapperton's Francolins and a Northern Striped Sand Snake quickly crossing the road. Cisticolas constantly made us stop and examine them. Especially cool were Foxy and Red-pated Cisticolas. A particular highlight for me was getting sweet views of two White-tailed Larks (there were likely more). I might have seen one in Serengeti but the view was inconclusive, so I counted this one as a lifer. We had it singing in flight. Getting views required stopping the car, getting out and slowly walking while hoping it will pop out onto the track. 

Striped Sand Snake

White-tailed Lark!!! Found on black cotton soil as the book predicted

This chicken stew was one of the best camp meals I've ever had, anywhere

At last with no more daylight, we were forced to temporarily pause bird-spotting to fill our stomachs

The following morning, Wilson and I stalked the hilltop for Standard-winged Nightjars. We managed to to flush one and spot where it landed, and very carefully, approached it close enough for a photo. There were several other birds including Lesser Blue-eared Starling, Chestnut-fronted Weaver, and Gambaga Flycatcher! 

We set out on a long drive into the reserve to seek out the elusive Fox's Weaver and other specialties of this area. Driving through an area of long grass, we flushed an adult and immature Black Coucal. The adult was fleeting and I missed it, but the immature was sitting out in the open. Further along, we came by a village of mud and straw huts out in the middle of nowhere. The land was scarred with burnt patches and crisscrossed by paths used by illegal cattle herdsmen. There were quite a few vultures (White-backed, Griffon, Lappet-faced and two White-headed) and eagles (Steppe, Lesser Spotted, Tawny) and large flocks of storks (Black and White). 

Flock of White Storks showing some of the savannah habitat typical of Pian Upe

On our way back, we stopped to inspect a soaring falcon, which we determined to be a Eurasian Hobby. But while we were stopped, it lead us to spotting a much more scarce and scintillating bird of the vast northern regions: the African Swallow-tailed Kite! Still riding high from this breathtaking sighting, the generalized song of a weaver caught the ear of Wilson while we were driving. We stopped, reversed, and right before our eyes was a solitary male Fox's Weaver singing in a small acacia! Our efforts to approach it continually caused it to fly further away, but we were satisfied enough. This was the last stretch of habitat for this target. We were very lucky to have Wilson's keen ear! Having snatched both the Swallow-tailed Kite AND the Fox's Weaver on our way out of the reserve, we felt as though we had cheated the birding Gods. 

African Swallow-tailed Kite

Fox's Weaver

Patas Monkey

Standard-winged Nightjar

Chestnut-fronted Sparrow-weaver

Gambaga Flycatcher

Spotted Eagle-owl

Back at camp, we birded some more, hoping to locate a roosting Standard-winged Nightjar. The birding on this hilltop was incredible. Not only did we find two roosting nightjars, but we also found the roosting Spotted Eagle-owl and a Gambaga Flycatcher. 

We didn't want to leave, but our fearless leader Emmy urged us to pack up camp and drive to our next area, Bokora Wildlife Reserve. Pian Upe had been one of the best birding areas I've ever visited. Keeping the list updated was difficult due to the diversity and numbers of birds.