Uganda pt. 4: Pian Upe Game Reserve - a new Standard of camping

We left Mabira Forest feeling depressed to have borne witness to Ugandan corruption and exploitation at its ugliest. Emmy had given me fair warning that would rather have avoided that site, but I just had to see it for myself. 

Now we could focus on the true purpose of this trip: to explore northeastern Uganda. This was a unique trip comprised of three friends. Emmy was the driver, cultural and natural history guide, master fire-cooker, mechanic and accountant. Wilson was the official trip leopard spotter and general bird listener. I was basically the trip financier, and the one who came up with the crazy idea. We each had our own goals in mind for this trip and places we looked forward to. For Emmy, the place he wouldn't stop talking about was Pian Upe Game Reserve. 

We met up with local ranger/guide Faustine and got ourselves set up at the 'public campsite', set atop an isolated rocky hill surrounded by vast arid plains. This was a game reserve which allows hunting, so the game is scarce and quick to flee upon the sight of a vehicle. Over the next couple of days, between his many business phone calls, Faustine was able to give us some interesting info about this amazing region. 

These Elands really kept their distance, due to hunting activities in the area

The first thing about Pian Upe is that it is massive. At about 2314 km^2, its even bigger than the Masai Mara (1510km^2). But its huge size makes it difficult to protect. The dream of conservationists like Faustine and Emmy is that some day it will be turned into a National Park. Its major weakness is that most of its great game has been wiped out by poaching. Back in the day, animals like black rhinos, elephants, lions and giraffes roamed around its vast plains. It is difficult to draw in tourists without those charismatic fauna. Emmy thinks that if they could restore the park to its former glory, it would rival the Serengeti as a safari destination. 

During our visit, the most impactful aspect of the landscape was the incessant wildfires, caused by rogue cattle herders trying to create fresh grass conditions but going about this with reckless abandon. I would say easily half the park had been recently burned. For the most part, the existing trees' fire-resistant bark had kept them alive, but in some instances where the fire had been fierce, they had become charred skeletons, giving the landscape an eerie post-apocalyptic look. 

Our challenge was to find the northern species that inhabit this region. Some, like the Stone Partridge and Karamoja Apalis, were residents of this arid region. Most targets, like the Swallow-tailed Kite and Heuglin's Wheatear, were wanderers over the vast northern regions of Abyssinia and North Africa which I don't know too much about. The mystery makes them that much more appealing to seek out! Desert Date, Red-bark Acacia, and Whistling Thorn Acacia decorated the horizon. 

Vervet Monkey in the campsite

On our first evening at camp, we took a walk in the pains and found a Spotted Eagle-Owl hunting from a tree. It later flew and perched on the ground. Interesting! A Gennet also made an appearance. The staff at the bar prepared us a very nice chicken stew with ugali and rice - it was epic. 

Morning birding began right in our hilltop camp, we were visited by a group of raucous Stone Partriges. This is a very difficult bird in most parts, but they had become semi-tame, although almost impossible to get a picture of due to being constantly on the move. While following the partridges, we inadvertently flushed a pair of male Standard-winged Nightjars, but were unable to re-locate them. The male standard-wing is a shocking sight if you've never seen one before. It looks like a nightjar being chased by two bats! 

Accompanied by Faustine, we set out on the main road toward a track that would lead us to some hopefully in-tact habitat for the Karamoja Apalis. Before we even left the main road, I spotted a Cheetah walking through the grass! It disappeared into some dense bushes and, without even appearing to have sprinted, emerged with a Bush Duiker in its jowels! It must have been caught sleeping? 

Just minutes later, we spotted a group of 4 other Cheetahs walking at some distance from the road. In these game reserves (where hunting is permitted), driving off-track poses no issue. We put the Land cruiser's capabilities to good use in following this group while maintaining a distance so as to not scare them off. While watching the cheetahs, we were tempted by distraction as three targets popped from the wilderness onto our list: Fox Kestrel, Abyssinian Roller and Heuglin's Wheatear. I did not know where to aim the bazooka. 

You can tell this one is the mum, it lacks a mane

Fox Kestrel

Heuglin's Wheatear

After the cheetah excitement, we drove to some sites along the road where Fox's Weavers have nested in the past. This was the dry season, and they nest in the wet season, so the birds were widely dispersed. Finding one was far from guaranteed. On this day, we did not. Another target that required lots of driving to different sites was the Karamoja Apalis, fond of Whistling Acacias like the ones in the picture bellow. 

Faustine nagivated us along the labyrinthine tracks that wove through the park, in between phone calls. He was organizing a meeting for some very big VIP's, and briefing his subordinates on the proper etiquettes an protocols, including how to open the car door for them, how to seat them, talk to them and so on. Without any kind of map, he used mysterious landmarks to guide us to the Karamoja Apalis habitat, sometimes mid-phone call. His characteristic telephone greeting: "Hello, how are you, where are you, when are you coming?" gave us a chuckle. 

Mt. Kadam, a dramatic feature among the otherwise flat plains

One of the many bush fires set by illegal pastoralists

To access the best area for the Karamoja Apalis, we had to skirt around a grass fire. Emmy was very cautious about avoiding the heat under the cruiser. Usually the dirt track was enough to stop the grass fire. One particular area was a flurry of activity. Abyssinian Rollers and Fox Kestrels vied for locusts scared up by the fire, while Abdim's Storks stalked the burnt patches like grim reapers, disregarding the smoldering hot ground. 

Faustine got us to the habitat, but the little buggers proved difficult to photograph has the jumped around in the tops of the acacias. 

Karamoja Apalis

Later on, we came upon an absolutely massive herd of cattle led by a young boy, who ran away when he saw us. I expected to see a few cattle here and there in the reserve, but the brazenness of bringing such large herds through the park was kind of shocking to me. Apparently they sometimes send out rangers to make arrests, but it seems to me like they don't have much control over the problem. 

After alot of driving around, we did see some interesting game here and there, though the animals were few and very skittish. Oribi were the most common, followed by Topi. There were a few Eland, Zebra, Jackson's Hartbeest and Roan Antelope. Those last two are special for this region. 

Close-up of the Whistling-thorn Acacia

Whistling Acacias with Mt. Kadam in the distance. 

African Quailfinch

On our way back from the Karamoja Apalis, we found a flock of skittish African Quailfinches, a pair of Clapperton's Francolins and a Northern Striped Sand Snake quickly crossing the road. Cisticolas constantly made us stop and examine them. Especially cool were Foxy and Red-pated Cisticolas. A particular highlight for me was getting sweet views of two White-tailed Larks (there were likely more). I might have seen one in Serengeti but the view was inconclusive, so I counted this one as a lifer. We had it singing in flight. Getting views required stopping the car, getting out and slowly walking while hoping it will pop out onto the track. 

Striped Sand Snake

White-tailed Lark!!! Found on black cotton soil as the book predicted

This chicken stew was one of the best camp meals I've ever had, anywhere

At last with no more daylight, we were forced to temporarily pause bird-spotting to fill our stomachs

The following morning, Wilson and I stalked the hilltop for Standard-winged Nightjars. We managed to to flush one and spot where it landed, and very carefully, approached it close enough for a photo. There were several other birds including Lesser Blue-eared Starling, Chestnut-fronted Weaver, and Gambaga Flycatcher! 

We set out on a long drive into the reserve to seek out the elusive Fox's Weaver and other specialties of this area. Driving through an area of long grass, we flushed an adult and immature Black Coucal. The adult was fleeting and I missed it, but the immature was sitting out in the open. Further along, we came by a village of mud and straw huts out in the middle of nowhere. The land was scarred with burnt patches and crisscrossed by paths used by illegal cattle herdsmen. There were quite a few vultures (White-backed, Griffon, Lappet-faced and two White-headed) and eagles (Steppe, Lesser Spotted, Tawny) and large flocks of storks (Black and White). 

Flock of White Storks showing some of the savannah habitat typical of Pian Upe

On our way back, we stopped to inspect a soaring falcon, which we determined to be a Eurasian Hobby. But while we were stopped, it lead us to spotting a much more scarce and scintillating bird of the vast northern regions: the African Swallow-tailed Kite! Still riding high from this breathtaking sighting, the generalized song of a weaver caught the ear of Wilson while we were driving. We stopped, reversed, and right before our eyes was a solitary male Fox's Weaver singing in a small acacia! Our efforts to approach it continually caused it to fly further away, but we were satisfied enough. This was the last stretch of habitat for this target. We were very lucky to have Wilson's keen ear! Having snatched both the Swallow-tailed Kite AND the Fox's Weaver on our way out of the reserve, we felt as though we had cheated the birding Gods. 

African Swallow-tailed Kite

Fox's Weaver

Patas Monkey

Standard-winged Nightjar

Chestnut-fronted Sparrow-weaver

Gambaga Flycatcher

Spotted Eagle-owl

Back at camp, we birded some more, hoping to locate a roosting Standard-winged Nightjar. The birding on this hilltop was incredible. Not only did we find two roosting nightjars, but we also found the roosting Spotted Eagle-owl and a Gambaga Flycatcher. 

We didn't want to leave, but our fearless leader Emmy urged us to pack up camp and drive to our next area, Bokora Wildlife Reserve. Pian Upe had been one of the best birding areas I've ever visited. Keeping the list updated was difficult due to the diversity and numbers of birds. 

Uganda pt. 3 : Mabira Forest, Paradise Lost?

 Paradise Lost

We took the turn for Rainforest Lodge in Mabira forest, just as it got dark. We had to drive through some habitations and cultivations to reach the forest edge. Emmy told us this all technically was supposed to be within the reserve, but had been land-grabbed. A steady stream of people hauled bundles of sticks on the heards from the forest, and even a full-scale logging truck (in a forest reserve?) - not a good sign! The lodge was pretty expensive but we managed to negotiate an acceptable price for camping on the grass, one or two courses (instead of three) and a simple breakfast. We heard a distant Red-chested Owlet, and got good views of some sort of tiny Gallago zipping around from branch to ranch. A Gennet krept around the waste bin. 

Afep Pigeon

At breakfast, we were treated to a huge Afep Pigeon, a lifer to me and Wilson. It's booming call is what alerted us. From there we proceeded to the forest office to settle the park fees. The fee structure was as complicated as a Vietnamese Restaurant menu (in typical Ugandan fashion) with a special extra fee for "birding". Well we just lied and pretended we weren't birders, and were able to pay significantly less (but still too much in my opinion). I told the clerk that you can't charge people money while at the same time do nothing to curtail the extensive illegal logging in the reserve. "What logging?" she asked. I said they should also give you some sort of uniform at least, to look more official. I guess the people in power have decided to forsake Mabira Forest which is a real shame. 

We then went to a spot called "The Dry Swamp" which was decent for birding, although we failed to find our two targets, the Tit-Hylia and the Blue-headed Crested Flycatcher. We did get Cameroon Sombre Greenbul, White-throated Greenbul and Honeyguide Greenbul, at least. So there were a few things. Emmy drove us down a narrow track, and from there we proceeded into the forest on foot on what used to be a good trail. Now, evidence of tree-felling and charcoal burning was everywhere. They were turning this pristine rainforest into Mordor basically. It was heartbreaking to see. We'd had enough, and left to see if there was better birding to be had at Gryffon Falls, in the northwest corner of the reserve. 

This required a convoluted drive through rural roads. As we approached the place, we got to a valley where the bridge was just too tiny to pass, resulting in having to turn around and go all the way back to the main road and then a different way, via the sugar cane plantations. This all used to be part of the reserve, and was illegally given away to an Indian businessman by the president, despite a group of environmental lawyers kicking their asses in the court case. The notion of "Rule of Law" means next to nothing in Uganda. We finally found Gryffon camp but there was nobody there, so Emmy called someone he knew nearby to get somebody to come and meet us. We made arrangements for dinner to be brought over and cooked for us. 

In the morning, we ate our breakfast and hit the trails with high aspirations. But the birding fell short of expectations. A Brown-eared Woodpecker gave a quick view, then a Brown-chested Alethe, a Red-tailed Bristlebill and a Red-tailed Greenbul, but other than that, not many sightings. But the Mohogany trees were absolutely spectacular with their massive buttresses. They must have been really old. There is still some good forest left in Mabira. 

Brown-chested Alethe

We got to the "Gryffon Falls" and I was excited to behold a beautiful setting. It looks like they had built a fairly impressive zipline over the river. Something was stinging my nostrils as we got closer. Then an absolutely horrific sight. The water in the falls was completely black. The pools had oil slicks and the stench coming from the water was horrific as well. Kind of like molasses. It was highly toxic and made the air difficult to breathe. This, Emmy, said, was the effluent from the sugar cane factory upstream. I couldn't believe that an entire pristine river had been wiped out. I would have expected the factory to be downstream from the mountain. 

On the walk back, we got sight of a Buff-spotted Woodpecker, one of the birds I had not seen before. Just as I was about to get on it, a massive group of young adults rambled down the trail, decked out in helmets and harnesses ready for ziplining. They were yelling like wild banshees, as if they were high on cocaine. Apparently ziplining was so exciting for them that they had to yell like a bunch of freaks. Emmy asked politely if they could stop. "Much as you are excited for your activities, there are also other people trying to enjoy the forest" Their group leaders didn't even bother controlling them, and they continued shrieking. The Buff-spotted was long-gone. I was furious and started yelling at these people, and they sort of subsided before continuing. Apparently some rich kids from that Aga Khan University going ziplining on a school day. School fees well-spent? By this point we were done with Mabira Forest and quite eager to get up north toward a vast game reserve by the name of Pian Upe. 

Uganda pt. 2: Search for the Sinister Swamp Stalker

 Search for the Sinister Swamp Stalker

Finally in Kampala (maybe 16 hours since the Nairobi departure time), after heavy stop and go traffic, we praised the Lord to be off that God forsaken bus. We took a taxi to the nearest shopping mall so I could pick up some malaria pills, some cash, and eat some decent food and a coffee. After waiting in a long line at the Equity bank, I was then told they wouldn't take my NCBA card and that I needed to visit an ATM, but not theirs. Even though I had asked if my NCBA card would work BEFORE I got in line, and the person said yes. Geez.....

So we needed to find an NCBA bank that would still be open. Luckily there was one. Emmy sent two of his people (Hillary and J) to get pick us up in a taxi and take us to the bank. When I got there, they had just closed the security gate 7 minutes earlier. I emplored the gard to let me in but he was rigid. "But your website says you're open until 4:30 pm, and it's only 3:07, how am I supposed to magically know that you're closed." "New Covid hours" he said. This made me absolutely incensed. I had to take a deep breath to calm myself. I took a walk to the car to tell everybody the problem. The daily limit for the ATM machine was only about $250, but we needed about $1000 to send to Emmy for the necessary vehicle repairs. At this rate, we would need to come back the next day, which would shorten our trip by 1 full day. Once I had calmed down, I thought of one possibility. I could call the helpline on my debit card, and ask them to temporarily raise my daily limit. Once I got on the line, the agent agreed and I succeeded in getting the funds. We were on our way. 

J took us all the way to the ferryboat which would take us (the scenic route) to the Nkima Forest Lodge. I had a nice chat with a fellow teacher, who helped me to negotiate a good price for the ferry (about 16,000 ugx or $4.50 usd). About half what we would have paid without her assistance. We said bye to J and enjoyed the evening boat ride in Lake Victoria. We actually passed through the Shoebill swamp on our way to the landing site, from which we got some motorbikes for about 50 cents each, up to the lodge. 

Pied Kingfisher

The next morning, we rolled out of our tent with high spirits. This was the day that Ismail the boatman would take us to see the Sinister Swamp Stalker a.k.a. the SHOEBILL. But a small problem was that our agreed upon shuttle was not there. One of the staff had asked us if we needed a lift to the shoebill site, and we agreed on 7am. But no member of staff was to be found. The other problem was that our cell phones were locked in a room and we had no ability to call either the boat man or our friend Prossy (who was already wondering where we were). We decided to just start walking down the hill even though it was pretty far. We bumped into a staff member on our way who told us we could get our phones from the locked room, but there was no shuttle and we could just walk there. OK? He led us part of the way then told just to keep walking straight so we did. As it turns out, early starts are not critical for the shoebill but it's still not nice to keep a friend waiting. 

Sedge Warbler

Once we were on the water, we easily found a shoebill stalking a backwater for its favourite prey: the lungfish. On our way, we came across a rather bold Papyrus Gonolek, which kept darting into the open to catch aerial insects. It was the most prolonged and enjoyable view I've had of this normally shy species. 

Papyrus Gonolek

Back at the lodge, we chilled at the bar and snapped a quick photo with the Christmas tree. Then we spend some time refining the itinerary. I was keen to visit Mabira Forest Reserve, despite Emmy's warning not to get my expectations up. He said the forest is not what it once was, but I wanted to see for myself. 

Prossy, Sniper, Wilson and Emmy

Double-toothed Barbets