Arabuko-Sokoke and Diani half-term adventure

The charismatic Golden-rumped Elephant Shrew

I had been making plans to visit the coast for diving and birding for quite some time, along with Wilson, Marto, Jack and Mustafa. Those plans sort of fell apart when 3 of those guys got called up for tours. That left just me and Jack (just like old times!). The plan was to take the train to the coast, spend a few days scuba diving, then meet up with Jack and head up to Watamu to look for Clarke's Weavers with the legendary David Ngala. 

Transportation

I took the Madaraka express train from Nairobi to Mombassa, planning to fly back at the end of the trip. Train cost 1000 bob while the plane ticket was only 32 Euros. I've got to say, it was a smooth ride and it arrived exactly on time (within a 1-minute error margin!). I don't need to say how rare that is for Kenya. The ride was smooth, with beautiful scenery through Tsavo Park (and up to 40 elephants). I had nice conversation with fellow passengers in the economy cabin and was able to catch up on my blog stories on my laptop. I would overall recommend, but travelers beware. The security apparatus at Nairobi is INSANE. It's basically like an airport but they confiscate random stuff from you (which is not in the terms and conditions of the ticket - I only says no alcohol or weapons). They were trying to "confiscate" (aka license to loot) peoples' bluetooth speakers and other valuables. When asked if I had one, I of course lied. Well, technically, I said it was "just photography equipment" (which, technically was true. The speaker was for calling in birds after all!). I got lucky but passengers behind me were raising quite the ruckus- I did NOT turn around to see what it was they were being robbed of, I just kept walking. Unfortunately, my friend Mike who had dropped me off on his motorbike, was taken advantage of by the security police guard guy at the parking lot. He was forced to pay a $1000 bribe after I left (guess he didn't want the mzungu seeing his corrupt act taking place). 

A shuttle bus and a tuktuk later, I was at my hostel in Diani (Diani backpackers). There was a party going on and my fellow teacher Collins from the primary school was there. We had a nice time but I was in no shape for a rager so I turned in at midnight for a decent night's sleep. Some lowlife couple outside my window in the parking lot had other ideas, arguing and yelling until 5 am. I talked to the management about this and they said the couple had a huge fight and they had tried to help but to no avail, but they assured me they were checking out that day. I didn't have any other problems at the backpackers after that. It was generally calm and a great place to meet some interesting characters. There were just a few weirdos that hang around there during the weekend it seemed. 

I dove for two days with "Diving the Crab" in Diani. Very professional diving experience with knowledgeable divemasters, all Kenyans. I noticed they were extremely diligent about checking our air pressure. I didn't have my GoPro but I can summarize the highlights: several Hawksbill and Green Sea Turtles (a dream come true! A couple of them within arm's reach. Moray eels, an octopus, cuttlefish and spectacular coral reefs with countless colourful fish. On the third day, I took a shuttle 1 hour south to Kisite Island with Pilipipa Tour Company. Most people go there to try their luck at snorkeling with dolphins. Me and a Danish guy were the only two clients diving. It was not very deep, only about 10 to 7 metres. Originally I'd thought this would be 4000ksh more expensive than The Crab, but when I asked them to charge me the Resident price it ended up being about 2000ksh cheaper. The seafood buffet was a definite highlight, as was the 3m long Morray Eel and the monster Baracuda. Apparently I swam right past the crocodile fish, which would have been awesome to see. My Danish friend tried to signal me but I had tunnel vision. There was a school of eerie looking silvery Moonfish which was enchanting. We could hear the clicks of dolphins somewhere in the distance. 

That Wednesday night it was a holiday and the government had lifted the curfew so a big party was in store. We started at a place called stilts which had a bonfire. The DJ was a little off but with a helping hand from some of the revelers, he was soon on track with some crowd-pleasing tunes from the likes of Hart the Band, Sauti Sol, Adekunle Gold etc. and things got bumpin' from then on. Before long we were a ragtag band of degenerates representing L.A., BC, Israel, Venuzuela, DRC and Kenya from east to west. The crazy Congo dance moves we'd learned the evening before during an "impromptu African dance tutorial" were put to the test. Everybody was impressed by Collins aka Collo. All made fools of themselves but did not care. 

some new friends

By that point in the evening, it was to migrate to the next joint. I could feel my energy waning - this was a trip back to a lifestyle which seemed like a past life for me. But I had gained wisdom since those days. I saved the night by chugging 4 bottles of water and half a bottle of  local "Jaba Juice" - a huge game changer if you're into partying all night. I guess it has kat in it or something, anyway, let's say I felt like a God and had zero hangover the next day! Directing the 'wolfpack' as we dubbed ourselves, to the next club (Manyatta) was like herding cats. We even lost a guy along the way and had to look for him. Valeria the Venuzuelan assumed the role of pack leader with me as the backup pack leader. This guy Dane from Colombia was a real handful as he kept wandering off but eventually we got there to find the place bumpin'. The night ended with a group dance that just kept growing bigger and bigger until it reached an epic level of coordinated dance moves as we took turns copying the leader. When it was over, I was talking with the 2 guys who started it. They said they were professional entertainers at a nearby resort. They gave me their numbers so next time I come back I can find where the best party is. 

We had to expedite our exodus because this Dane guy was losing it a bit and smashing a beer bottle on the ground so we had to grab him and get out of there before he got himself beat up by an irate bouncer. At that point Valeria the pack leader and her friend had already left without telling us. I assumed the mantle of pack leader, counting heads like I was taking kids on a field trip. I had been making sure all were properly hydrated up to that point (I must have bought 10 bottles of water at the bar, and zero alcohol). Up to that point one of our lady friends had seemed not into the party and wouldn't tell us why. When we got back to the hostel she revealed it was because this guy had groped her leg in an inappropriate way during the tuktuk ride earlier in the night and kept making unwanted advances on her all night. That was really unfortunate. The stuff a laaaaaady has to endure just for being good looking is unbelievable. 

Journey to Arabuko-Sokoke Forest

Jack had not gone out with us that night, preferring to stay rest from his journey. We got a late morning start for our trip up to Watamu by two tuktuks and two matatus (it was rather long and hot). We found a place called "Mida Creek Eco Camp" which was pretty much deserted. The solitude was alright though. We met the legendary David Ngala and our driver, Katana who would take us around for the next 3 days in a land rover for a very reasonable price. When looking for a good guide to take you around Arabuko-Sokoke, you are spoiled for choice. But there was one man we had to get and that was Mzee Ngala. I tipped generously at the end to compensate for my past days of being poor and stingy. Also, back in 2015, David went out of his way spending a night in the forest to get us a Sokoke Scops Owl on the last morning of our trip - that act of birding heroism did not go unforgotten over the last 6 years. 

Our 5 star accomodation

Day 1

We kicked things off with a search for the Spotted Ground-Thrush which was presumed long gone, because it hadn't been reported in 2 weeks. With a great deal of patience and super-human sensory capabilities and stealth, we located the bastard walking around the forest floor. I got a 1-second view of its face before it flew away. Relocating it took some effort but we eventually got a half-decent photo. 

Ultimate stealth mode

A "spotted" Ground-Thrush!!!!

Red-capped Robin-chat - very common on the coast

Yellow Baboons

Aside from the Ground-Thrush, our main priority was the Clarke's Weaver which we also missed on our last trip to Sokoke in 2015. It was very hot and tiring walking around all morning. By 9am it was almost too hot to bird. 

Me, Jack and Mzee Ngala

The mythical Weaver eluded us. However, we had a great time visiting the Sokoke Scops Owl site, sighting two pairs there. Difficult to get a good picture without breaking sticks and disturbing the owls, which I'm sure many photographers do (how else would they get such perfect pics?). We contented ourselves with our stick-filled pics. 

Sokoke Scops Owl - one of the most endangered birds in the world

Birding in the Scops owl habitat- a distinctively different forest with red soil and very short trees

Enjoying some local chakula - kuku choma, maharague, mchele, mchicha

We ended the day with a visit to he watering hole for the elephants. There are about 200 elephants in Arabuko-Sokoke. We saw about 20 run to the water well in the twilight. A pratincole landed, which I figured to be collared but it was too dark to tell. 

This was taken after dark with the iso cranked up - at least you can see them. 

I asked for a double portion this time

Day 2

Fiery-necked Nightjar early in the morning

We got to the forest at 5:30 am to dry a display site for African Broadbill, which neither of us had ever seen. Despite getting really close to 3 of them, we dipped on that one and accepted conciliatory views of East Coast Akalat which were more confiding. Later we located a couple of Sokoke Pipits which was nice, and a Pallid Honeyguide which took us about 20 minutes to spot way up in a tree. 

East Coast Akalat

Sokoke Pipit

Pallid Honeyguide

Ants in pants

Back at the camp, we went for a walk in the mud, getting our feet sliced by clamshells while we terrorized hundreds of tiny crabs in search of shorebirds. I got Terek Sandpiper (lifer), Lesser and Greater Sandplover (Kenya and world lifers, respectively), Bar-tailed Godwit (Kenya lifer), lots of Crab Plovers, and a purple-banded Sunbird (lifer). 

Crab Plovers

Mixed flock of Greater and Lesser Sandplovers

Whimbrel

Terek Sandpiper

Purple-banded Sunbird

Greater and Lesser Sandplovers. Can you tell them apart? 

Lesser Sandplover

Day 3

This was our last morning with David, since we figured we weren't gonna see a Clarke's Weaver even if we added an extra day. We got up at an ungodly hour for one last shot at the Broadbill. Katana our drive forgot to activate his alarm, so we were waiting a while. We started walking toward the main road when we heard a Barred Owlet calling from the trees. We tried to find it but it kept frustratingly evading us every time we got close. Katana arrived and we got the the forest to meet David. We got to the Broadbill spot but couldn't hear any calling. We feared we were too late and missed our chance. But a birder should never give up. We walked around the display area for a while and eventually heard a late-calling individual. With tons of patience we tracked it down and strained to get our first view. We then spotted it two more times as it cryptically darted to a new perch. The African Broadbill - a truly epic lifer! 

African Broadbill!!!

Elephant dung. We did see a group on the road during the day, they kept at a distance

African Wood Owl

The day was off to an amazing start. We never did find any Clarke's Weavers, but the birding was by far the best of the three days. I thought David was pointing at something so I looked up and there were 3 Verreaux's Eagle-Owls sitting in the tree. Turns out David wasn't pointing at anything, and didn't know they were there. A Great Sparrowhawk attacked the immature Eagle-Owl. We also saw Retz's Helmetshrike among the Chestnut-fronteds. The elephant watering hole was by far the highlight of the whole trip. There were 2 Northern Carmine Bee-eaters (one killed and ate a dung beetle!) and we had an interesting study of a common cuckoo. 

Northern Carmine Bee-eater

Madagascar Pratincole!!!

We settled on Common Cuckoo based on the wing length

We studied the Barn Swallows carefully and revealed twoto be Ethiopian Swallows (white front, less of a forked tail, broken breastband). While I was studying the Malindi Pipits vs. Plain-backed Pipits, Jackson spotted a motionless Madagascar Pratincole sitting in the elephant-trodden mud. That was absolutely spectacular and it allowed close approach. The best bird of the trip is a tough contest between this one and the broadbill. We were scheduled to meet James Apolloh at Mida Creek and were late for our appointment but at least we had a decent excuse (MADAGASCAR PRATINCOLE!!!). 

At Mida Creek we were smart and rented some clogs from a guy at the office. Leave it to Kenyans to find a niche wherever there is one. Our very long ramble on the mudflats resulted in zero cuts to the feet. We got better views at the shorebirds, including Greater and Lesser Sandplover (an interesting study), Little Stint, Eurasian Curlew, Whimbrels, Bar-tailed Godwits, Greater Flamingos (very distant), Palm Nut Vulture and greater numbers of Curlew Sandpipers and Terek Sandpipers. I bought us some coconuts (100 each, but Jack's was somehow 50 bob!) and I tried my hand at bargaining for some handicrafts from the vendors. 

White-fronted Bee-eater

The vast mudflats at Mida Creek

Bar-tailed Godwit

Little Stint

Eurasian Curlew

The heat made us coco loco

Later, we popped by my colleague Lucy's vacation house to check for Mouse-coloured Sunbirds which are purported to be there. 

We tried again to search for the weaver in the afternoon but with no luck. We spotted Zanzibar Boubou and Peter's Twinspots on the road on our way out. David got a little tingle from the Elephant fence as we passed through the gate. 

Trying to call in a Mouse-coloured Sunbird (unsucessfully)

Peter's Twinspots

Zanzibar Boubou

Later that night we went for a night walk around the camp and located 4 different Barred Owlets calling. We got agonizingly close to seeing one but always right when I though I had it, it disappeared. This was insanely frustrating. After we went to bed, it called from a distance, just to mock us. 

Day 4

In the morning, we got up very early to try one last shot at the Barred Owlet. We had it calling even 30 minutes after sunrise but again, it just tantalized us. We were so disapointed to miss that one after so much early morning and late evening effort. We headed over to Lucy's to relax before my flight. We again tried for the Mouse-coloured Sunbird but got skunked again. Got to save a few for next time! 

What it looked like when we completely gave up on the Sunbird

I caught my plane at Malindi airport with no problems. In summary, this was an all-round great trip. The scuba diving with sea turtles was definitely the highlight. Although we missed 3 main targets, the African Broadbill hunt was one of the most exciting forest birds I've seen in East Africa over the years. The Madagascar Pratincole was an absolute stroke of luck as they were supposed to be gone at this time of year. I also got amazing views of Four-toed Elephant Shrew (lifer) and Golden-rumped Elephant Shrew, as well as Elephants. I now have a few solid excuses to go back. Birding with David also goes without saying - we were pretty humbled by his level of skill at the craft of birding not to mention his all-round knowledge of the forest. 

Future Plans

I plant to return to Watamu with Ramata for February half-term for some diving, and hopefully then we can make a visit to Sabaki River. If there's even time, we can try the Mouse-coloured Sunbird and Barred Owlet in the early morning before scuba diving. 

In July, I have plans to join A Rocha on a seabird count at Whale Island, to try for Brown and Lesser Noddy, Sooty Tern and Bridled Tern. On land, I will hire David Ngala for a couple of days to look for the Clarke's Weaver again and hopefully, with immense luck, African Pitta which is a seasonal visitor during that time.