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Team Mfalme (Credit: Steve) |
Every birding trip needs its companions. Let me tell you about ours...
Emmy
Emmy Gongo is a birding mastermind, cultural reservoir, attentive father, naturalist, mechanic, horticulturist, steward of the Pearl of Africa...his list of abilities goes on. We became instant friends when I first visited his beloved Broadbill Forest Camp. Without his jovial nature and wit our trip would not have been the same.
Wilson
Wilson, aka "Tiren" is a stealthy Masai with a knack for finding shy birds. It was he who demonstrated to me the correct technique for Ugali and who gave guidance for my first slaughtering of a goat. He is an expert at preparing traditional food.
His status as a man of few words makes him an ideal birding partner as he is unlikely to spook the target. When he does talk, one would be wise to heed his words. "All that glitters is not gold," he would say.
Combined with his silence is his ability to sit motionless for long periods. He wields the technology of the modern naturalist while abiding by traditions, such as refusing to speak while eating (it's bad luck).
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Demonstrating how to cook Ugali (in correct attire) (credit: Steve) |
Ramata
Ramata, aka "Kipepeo" is the glue that holds together
team Mfalme. She has physiological inability to be angry which can come in handy at times.
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Credit: Ramata |
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So positive (credit: Steve) |
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Enjoying the bazooka |
One year ago, Kipepeo had never been camping. Now, she can claim to have raged in some of the most epic locales and seen some of the most epic species on the planet. For that, I feel I must pat myself on the back.
In truth, most girls would have found me too much to handle by now. Scotland last year was our first test (flying Friday night then driving overnight to northern Scotland to catch the first ferry to an epic puffin island), followed by Mt. Robson (80 km hike). I think it is safe to say she has experienced "full Tim." We have never had a fight and have only argued about one topic, which is whether or not Giroud is a world-class striker who deserves to play for France (he is).
The three things Kipepeo fears most are precipitous heights, icy-cold waters and mosquitoes.
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The life of the party (Credit: Steve) |
Steve
Steve, aka "Kasuku" is one of the word's top kingfisher and bee-eater enthusiasts. He is one of my best rafikis, know for his enthusiasm and loyalty. Having brushed with death more than once, he is determined to enjoy the sweet juice of life to the last drop.
However, we disagree on a a fundamental aspect of birding which is the stake-out. While Wilson and I prefer to sit still and shut up, Kasuku becomes restless as the target draws near, adjusting his position for an optimized angle and communicating in the most profane manner. Such was my fear as I dug in for White-spotted Flufftail at Kibale National Park. Inevitably, I was joined by Tiren and Kasuku. As it appeared I disciplined myself not to move and to wait for it to walk into view, but Kasuku's excitement was enough to spook the timid rail. His level of excitement can be measured on a scale we refer to as the rage-o-meter. He was on 7 at this moment. By the way, I saw the rail after those two left.
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Credit: Steve |
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Credit: Ramata |
Steve is easily lured by hawkers, vendors, hustlers and general passers-by. Here, a bunch of young lads vie for his attention while I attempt in vain to minimize our interactions with them. Personally, I don't like to stand out and I can live without taking a picture of everything, but friends are allowed to disagree and Steve is one of the best of friends.
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This is normally when I would high-tail it out of town (credit: Steve) |
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Always time for a selfie (credit: Steve) |
Kasuku's ubiquitous iphone captured limitless memories throughout the trip and necessitated converting the Land Cruiser into a CIA-style mobile command center with a bajilion terabytes of storage and constantly turning the wifi hotspot on and off until Emmy's network eventually blocked him for using too much data.
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Steve's birding and telecommunication hub (credit: Steve) |
Steve's iphone
I have classified Steve's iphone 7 as a member of our trip. Here are some if it's top moments:
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iphone 7 with Rhinocerous Viper |
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iphone 7 with Bush Viper |
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iphone 7 at Uganda Reptile Village |
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iphone 7 with distinctive cattle |
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iphone 7 taking a rest |
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iphone 7 with Flap-necked Cameleon |
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iphone 7 with Gorillas |
Evie
Evie Sintoya is a guide in the Mara who heard about our quest via Wilson. I sent out the call that any Kenyan is welcome to join us, and she seized the opportunity. She could join us for only 3 days because she had to return home for an exam. That involved a night bus to Kampala followed by a day bus to Fort Portal, an intense round-trip journey to say the least. The fact that a stranger went to such lengths to join our quest makes her an automatic permanent member of team Mfalme. She rode with us to Budongo Royal Mile for less than an hour of birding, then left. In that time, Emmy dropped us off and drove her up the road for a surprise: a fig tree full of chimpanzees. The joy in her eyes was breathtaking. She caught a boda boda to start the long trip back to Kenya.
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Friends for life (credit: Steve) |
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Evie and Wilson, a good team? |
Mfalme (guest-authored by Ramata)
Tim, aka “Mfalme”, was the one who brought the team together for this once in a lifetime experience through the Congo and Uganda. An avid birder and wildlife enthusiast, Mfalme worked out our itinerary, keeping in mind our individual interests. After months of careful planning, our trip was finally off to a start from London Heathrow, where I began to understand why he was nicknamed “the king”.
Not having even boarded our plane yet, Mfalme and I were treated to a free upgrade. You see, mfalme is over 6ft tall, and our original seats would not have made the journey comfortable enough for him.
In the Congo, mfalme decided to challenge the chief of this family of gorillas.
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Who is King? (credit: Ramata) |
And through out the trip, mfalme feasted like a king, to the point that after having made Tim’s 10th chapati, a chef complained to the waitress that he should learn to make it himself.
But Mfalme’s leadership and previous experiences of travelling through east Africa was what made our trip run smoothly from start to finish. And with the team he assembled, this trip was undoubtedly always going to be a success!
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Re-learning an old skill (credit: Steve) |
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Rage mode engage (credit: Ramata) |
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Anticipating the next lifer (credit: Steph Felicita) |
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